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Problem sa A470...

Started by trut, April 12, 2010, 06:31:30 pm

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trut

U pitanju je Canon a470 kamera je odjednom pocela da se cudno ponasa, kod ukljucivanja slika je skroz mutna medjutim kad se maksimalno zumira (opticki) slika bude cista. Prilikom zuma ispusta neke cudne zvuke i ponekad blokira na displeju se pojavi "lens error, restart camera". Garancija je istekla tako da od toga nista. Ako je imao neko iskustva sa ovim posto kontam i kod drugih canon-a je slican sistem, posto joj u krajnjem slucaju ne gine raskopavanje moze neki savet za popravak. U obzir dolazi i neki servis u NS ili blizoj okolini ko radi ovakve stvari...

Sekula

April 12, 2010, 10:46:15 pm #1 Last Edit: April 12, 2010, 10:52:42 pm by Sekula
Probati sa vadjenjem baterija i zamenom za potpuno nove tj napunjene. Sacekati do paljenja jedno minut vremena da bi se kondenzator(i) ispraznili (ovo u situaciji da je kamera bila ukljucivana prethodno). Probati naizmenicno jedno desetak puta kameru pokretati u krajnji zoom i odmah nakon toga ga vracati u najsiru poziciju i tako naizmenicno. Pratiti sta se desava. Ukoliko ostane problem, a zoom radi normalno odnosno cuje se rad motora, jedino sto moze da se predpostavi kao problem je sam autofokus. A to onda pretpostavlja ozbiljnu servisnu intervenciju za koju ne mogu da pretpostavim koliko kosta.

Srecno!

Poz.
| SW newtn 200/1000 | SW NEQ6 Synscan goto | Logitech Quickam Pro 3000 | Canon EOS 550d | Baader astrosolar filter |  SW Black Diamond ED 80/600 | Flattener korektor SW 0.85 | Lacerta MGEN autoguider | Nikon action ex 10x50 cf binocular |

Yagodinac

Meni se javljala poruka "lens error, restart" samo kad objektiv nije mogao da se izvuče odnosno kad ga je dotični blokiran. Najčešće kad stavim aparat na microstage suviše blizu okulara i uključim, a on udari u okular i naljuti se  ::)
Naravno da restart pomaže. Ako ovo ne pomogne probaj da nabaviš neki 470 za delove, ili da ti to uradi serviser. Ne znam da li je sistem isti kao kod drugih canona (5xx, 6xx) i predpostavljam da namerno nije isti.

spadej

Doktore, tvoja aparat javlja gresku zbog mehanicke blokade i to nije kvar.
Trut ima drugi problem. Objektiv je u pitanju, i to neki od zupcanika  ili fokus mehanizam. U oba slucaja je popravka izuzetno slozena. Vise puta sam pokusavao i sa HP-om i sa Canon-om, retko sam uspevao. Zato se objektivi uglavnom menjaju ali to je preskupa intervencija.
Trute, ako imas vremena, i zivaca, probaj. Rasklopi aparat, izvadi ceo objektiv i pogledaj najpre sklop zupcanika koji se nalazi sa spoljne strane. Ako su svi zupcanici OK, onda je problem flat cable za fokus mehanizam, koji se zguzvao i ispao iz svoje vodjice. To se nalazi unutar objektiva i jako je tesko doci do njega ali probaj.



kocha

U potpunosti se slazem sa spadejom. Na nikonu 4500 me je takva opravka kostala 90 e!

Sekula

Evo sta kazu Canon strucnjaci za ovaj tip error-a. Vrlo je precizno objasnjeno sta sve moze da se odradi. Sedam nacina ukupno. Naravno, malo prevodjenja sa engleskog:

This has to be THE most common failure mode for a digital camera. Some common error messages that might show up on the LCD's of cameras with this problem include "E18 lens error", or "lens error, restart camera". Some cameras might show nothing at all, but merely make a beeping noise as the lens goes out, then in, then the camera shuts off. Sometimes the lens won't even move.
The problem is actually quite common throughout all camera brands. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. Or the battery ran down with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one BIG contributor to lens errors is using a camera case. Sand, gunk, case fibers, etc... accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials love to cling to the camera by electrostatic build-up from the camera rubbing against the side of the case (especially those cases with soft fibrous intreriors). Once these materials work their way into the lens mechanism, that's all she wrote. I have many Canon's, and NEVER use a case for this very reason.
A camera owner that suffers this problem may have no recourse for having the camera repaired. Many camera makers will not honor repairing this problem under warranty as they claim it is due to impact damage to the camera, or sand or debris getting into the lens gearing mechanism (neither of which is covered under warranty). The quoted repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth.
Fortunately, about half the cameras that suffer this failure can easily be fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods involve opening the camera, although some have potential to cause other damage to the camera if excessively done. If the camera is still under warranty, before trying any of these, please please first contact your camera's maker to see if they'll cover the repair, or to determine how much they'll charge for the repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote you a number that's higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods.
The methods are listed in the order of risk of damaging your camera. Thus make sure you try them in the listed order. And remember, these fixes (especially #6 and 7) should only be considered for a camera that's out of warranty, who's cost of repair would be excessive, and would otherwise be considered for disposal if unrepaired:
Fix #1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Put a fresh set of batteries back in (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500mah or better) and turn the camera on. If that didn't work, try pressing and holding the Function or OK button while turning the camera on.
Fix #2: Remove the batteries, then remove the memory card. Then install new batteries, and turn on the camera. If you get an Error E30, it means you don't have a memory card installed, so turn it off, slip in the memory card and turn it on one last time.
Fix #3: Insert the cameras Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particals that may be jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself, consider keeping this cable installed while trying fixes 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra help to these fixes. But note that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER tapping the camera.
Fix #4: Place the camera flat on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins in their slots.
Fix #5: Blow compressed air in the gaps around the lens barrels with the idea of blowing out any sand or grit that may be in there jamming the lens. Other variations include blowing with a hair dryer in "no heat" setting, or sucking the gaps with a vacuum (careful with this one).
Now we're entering into the realm of potentially damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here, so take care when conducting the following two fixes.
Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some potential for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.
Fix #7: Try forcing the lens. More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other methods. HOWEVER, there's obviously some potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the power button. Attempt to gently straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap (note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera.
| SW newtn 200/1000 | SW NEQ6 Synscan goto | Logitech Quickam Pro 3000 | Canon EOS 550d | Baader astrosolar filter |  SW Black Diamond ED 80/600 | Flattener korektor SW 0.85 | Lacerta MGEN autoguider | Nikon action ex 10x50 cf binocular |

trut

Ne gine mu rastavljanje javiću na forumu kako je prošlo :)

Sekula

Drati trut,

Nadam se da si uspeo ovaj text sa engleskog da prevedes? U njemu ima sedam relevantnih pokusaja koji pomazu i kod drugih digitalnig aparata drugih marki sa identicnim problemom. Dobar deo preporuka pretpostavlja da ne moras da rasklapas aparat. U svako slucaju ako si se odlucio na rasklapanje - Srecno!   :)

Poz.
| SW newtn 200/1000 | SW NEQ6 Synscan goto | Logitech Quickam Pro 3000 | Canon EOS 550d | Baader astrosolar filter |  SW Black Diamond ED 80/600 | Flattener korektor SW 0.85 | Lacerta MGEN autoguider | Nikon action ex 10x50 cf binocular |

CyberianIce

Sad cu ja o5 malo da smaram sa CHDK. Da li si koristio CHDK u ovoj kameri? Ako nisi pokusaj da instaliras, on ce ti omoguciti da pokrenes dijagnosticke rutine koje mogu biti od pomoci kod dalje popravke. Takodje, zavisno od kamere ima i opciju za automatsku kalibraciju mehanizma za fokusiranje, to ti ne gine ako je budes rastavljao, jer nakon sklapanja ako nisi vratio sve u onom stanju kako je bilo ranije (a to je gotogvo nemoguce), mora ponovo da se kalibrise objektiv...

Kad malo bolje razmislim, tebi mozda samo i kalibracija pomogne ako ti ne izbacuje Lens Error odmah prilikom starta.
Telescopius
AstroBin
Sky-Watcher 200P | Meade Instruments DS2090 | Tair-3-Phs | Celestron CG-5 | OnStepX | Canon EOS 600D AstroMod | ZWO ASI120MM-S

kruska

Quote from: Yagodinac on April 13, 2010, 08:04:07 am
Meni se javljala poruka "lens error, restart" samo kad objektiv nije mogao da se izvuče odnosno kad ga je dotični blokiran. Najčešće kad stavim aparat na microstage suviše blizu okulara i uključim, a on udari u okular i naljuti se  ::)
Naravno da restart pomaže. Ako ovo ne pomogne probaj da nabaviš neki 470 za delove, ili da ti to uradi serviser. Ne znam da li je sistem isti kao kod drugih canona (5xx, 6xx) i predpostavljam da namerno nije isti.

verovatno mu prilikom zumiranja slike dok aparat drzi na okularu aparat odgovara na identican nacin. U prevodu neka predje na piggyback method.
p.s. obican restart canona resava problem

CyberianIce

Da, ali ako mu je slika mutna osim kada zumira do kraja to implicira da je mehanizam za fokusiranje "out of alignment". Znaci potrebna ti je kalibracija objektiva koliko je meni poznato to moze da se izvede na par nacina. Ja preporucujem originalnom Canon-ovom servisnom memorijskom karticom...
Telescopius
AstroBin
Sky-Watcher 200P | Meade Instruments DS2090 | Tair-3-Phs | Celestron CG-5 | OnStepX | Canon EOS 600D AstroMod | ZWO ASI120MM-S

Sekula

Quote from: CyberianIce on April 13, 2010, 11:04:09 pm
Da, ali ako mu je slika mutna osim kada zumira do kraja to implicira da je mehanizam za fokusiranje "out of alignment". Znaci potrebna ti je kalibracija objektiva koliko je meni poznato to moze da se izvede na par nacina. Ja preporucujem originalnom Canon-ovom servisnom memorijskom karticom...


Dobra je ideja da proba sa unapredjenim software-om i dijagnostikom. Ali ako je doslo da upadanja prasine ili bilo kakve druge mehanicke prepreke, opet mu ne gine da proba da uz snagu motora odglavi mehanizam (recimo to je onaj Fix #3 sa iskljucenjem lcd-a na startu uz koriscenje pune snage zoom motora)  ili da proba hard varijantu Fix #6 ili Fix #7. Sve u cilju da bi se izbegla konacna operacija rasklapanja aparata.

Poz.
| SW newtn 200/1000 | SW NEQ6 Synscan goto | Logitech Quickam Pro 3000 | Canon EOS 550d | Baader astrosolar filter |  SW Black Diamond ED 80/600 | Flattener korektor SW 0.85 | Lacerta MGEN autoguider | Nikon action ex 10x50 cf binocular |

Sekula

U svakom slucaju da ne zaboravim link koji je prilicno dobar, a uz ove savete je data prilicno precizna fotografija objektiva kada se rasklopi:

http://camerarepair.blogspot.com/2007/12/fixing-lens-error-on-digital-camera.html

Poz.
| SW newtn 200/1000 | SW NEQ6 Synscan goto | Logitech Quickam Pro 3000 | Canon EOS 550d | Baader astrosolar filter |  SW Black Diamond ED 80/600 | Flattener korektor SW 0.85 | Lacerta MGEN autoguider | Nikon action ex 10x50 cf binocular |

CyberianIce

Samo da prijavim danas sam imao isti problem sa mojom kamerom ako i @trut. To se dogodilo tako sto sam izneo kameru napolje za vreme ove oluje i stavio je na tripod, pokrenuo skriptu za hvatanje munja i otisao da jedem. Kad sam se vratio imao sam sta i da vidim. Previse je bilo oblacno za bilo kakve rezultate a objektiv kamere je bio skroz mokar jer je jak vetar nanosio kisu u pravcu kamere i kompletan objektiv se zamaglio. Nakon sto je kamera odstojala malo u toplom, bez baterija i kartice, kondenzat se povukao i sve je proradilo normalno...
Telescopius
AstroBin
Sky-Watcher 200P | Meade Instruments DS2090 | Tair-3-Phs | Celestron CG-5 | OnStepX | Canon EOS 600D AstroMod | ZWO ASI120MM-S

spadej

To nije isti problem. Trut-ov aparat ispusta "cudne zvuke" prilikom pomeranja objektiva, koji mogu poticati samo zbog nekog mehanickog problema. A mehanicke probleme, ili bolje receno ostecenja, ne moze da resi nikakav softver, restart i sl. Pa ni Spirit nije mogao da se popravi "setom komandi" vec je vuk'o svoj blokirani tocak.

Ti si imao puno srece a presudno je bilo brzo vadjenje baterija. Voda+struja = katastrofa. Canon fotoaparati imaju jos jednu bateriju (onu malu dugmetastu, RAM protect). Ako je uredjaj mnogo pokvasen treba i nju izvaditi.